HTX Soul…
…as I see it. An essay and starter guide to visual art in Houston, Texas.
Photo by Ruben Mavarez
Speaking for the entirety of Houston, the fourth largest city in the US and one of the most culturally diverse, would surely invite a wrath that I am not prepared or equipped to endure. That being said, the Houstonians outside of my personal circle that I have had the pleasure of speaking with all have a visceral response and fierce opinions about this swamp we call home. On rare occasions and with great difficulty, I have gained a sneak peek around the reinforced defenses of locals to get to the true, unfiltered opinions. If the planets are aligned and the ‘Stros are on a winning streak (especially against the Rangers), locals will reluctantly admit to a love-hate relationship with the city, myself included.
Wait, before you bring out the torches and pitchforks, hear me out. First off, the Love side of the scale far outweighs the hate. Buuuut, let’s explore the bad first. To recognize, acknowledge, and in some cases change or accept the ugly is to exude perseverance. Hold on to your hats.
One can not possibly experience and therefore understand all that we have to offer without embracing the sauna-like atmosphere of the outdoors and the forty-five-minute commute in any direction. The temperature and humidity can’t be helped, and the mechanics and politics of the transportation issue are an infuriating problem with a storied past that is better left for another time, perhaps. I digress.
Visitors have often described the greater Houston area as “ugly.” I can't say that I disagree. Aw, nah, you done gone too far now! Well, let’s consider the perspective of a passerby. From the perpetual development of bland aluminum buildings and sand colored shopping strips, to the ever-widening freeways littered with advertisements vying for your attention and dollars, it’s difficult for a newcomer to see the trees for the forest. You might be thinking of a litany of expletives to lob at those tourists that only a Houstonian could articulate as colorfully as the city itself. Before you start throwing stones and insults, let's practice a little introspection. We tend to be so protective that we turn away positive change. Personally, I have met lifelong residents who have barely left their neighborhood, much less ventured to explore the city and beyond. Yet, those same lifers will complain about the state of various aspects. Though this is rare inside the loop, that number grows by far if we include all of those living nearby who claim to be from Houston, especially the suburbs. Yeah, I said it. Respectfully, get out of your frail comfort zones to try new things, meet new people, and maybe fall in love with the adventure. Likewise, accept and even invite others in. Make being uncomfortable your new comfortable.
Now for the greater side, the love side. The endearment of our hallowed ground is firmly rooted in culture, which we are not in short supply. The coalescences of diverse heritages, generations-deep and immigrant alike, have boiled over the proverbial melting pot, thoroughly salting the earth. The soil, saturated, has leached into the circulatory system that is our rivers and bayous, to be carried to the surrounding areas. This complicated lifeblood hydrates the ever-deepening roots, growing our costumes and traditions, while feeding our souls collectively. This complicated amalgamation has produced some of the most unique scenes that are impossible to explain in a blog. Even in an age of constant, relentless visual content, no amount of video and imagery could impart the profundity of this place. The neighborhoods, festivals, cars, shops, markets, and the food…oh, man. The food! The music, film, dance, literature, poetry, and graphic novel scene. The list goes on and on, endlessly. They are all so immersive and fueled by passion and uniquely H-town grit. Libraries could be stocked with the amount of information on each of these communities individually, but one needs to experience them to grasp the depth.
The art, though. Every single thing that I listed above made me fall for this city, but the first and most impactful thing was and always will be the art.
“Art washes away from the soul the dust of everyday life.” - Picasso.
From local art displayed anywhere space is available, to the Art Car museum, and The Orange Show, to the Museum of Fine Arts (MFAH), Houston is a hub. The public art both overlaps the aforementioned international art world as well as the local culture and homegrown artists. Personally, as someone interested, I have done my best to take public art in and find out who the artists are, even in a car, at high speeds. Here’s lookin’ at you, silver floral pylon things.
Edit: After writing this, I had to look into the pylons. Luckily, Houston weather and traffic provided the not-so-perfect, but okay circumstances to pass at a slow speed. As much as it rains here, one would assume that traffic would continue as usual, but alas, the perpetual log-jam worsens. If you see a rain cloud approaching, you’ll soon hear sirens. Anyway! The pylons are called “The Buffalo Bayou Torches.” Unfortunately, I was not able to find an artist’s name on the sculpture as I rolled by and craned my neck out of my car window, into the rain. Nor have I been able to find much information online. I’ll keep digging. At this point, I may have to write an in-depth post about the journey.
The beauty that we enjoy is created by us as Houstonians, and we are rightfully proud and protective. It was created for us after all, and whether it was a conscious effort or not, we felt the absence of beauty on our walks, commutes, and in our everyday lives. Over time, and in a seemingly inconsistent ebbing and flowing nature, glimpses of art have been sprinkled throughout the network of freeways and feeders. Thanks in no small part to the dedication of the creative community to aggressively push for approval through official channels and, in some cases, in direct defiance of those channels. Sometimes, encouraging us to be someone despite the odds, these visual expressions that serve no other purpose, become a beloved staple, a part of us that is resolutely protected by the community.
The soul of this place is strong and unwavering, no matter the adversity. Houston Strong and the grassroots efforts after Hurricane Harvey in 2017 are a testament to the resilience and spirit of our people.
Spirit is not always apparent until you make an effort and maybe even work to gain an intimate understanding.
The purpose of this particular post is not meant to act as a complete, comprehensive city art guide (there are much better options out there for that) Whether you are reading this as a passer by, visitor, suburbanite, or a long time resident looking for more, I hope to share a glimpse into the soul of Houston, as I see it, one aspect at a time.
"Art plays a crucial role in forming and expressing cultural identity. It captures the essence of a community's beliefs, traditions, and experiences.” - Reyner.
Combining traditional fine arts, local, and vibrant street murals for an urban adventure right in our backyard is possible with a little effort. With some online digging and creative thinking, one can easily build an immersive self-guided art tour of Houston’s art scene.
I compiled the information below as a start to your discovery. I hope it lights a fire that you help spread to your community.
Starting with the big guys.
Photo by Adrian Newell
Museum of Fine Arts, Houston (MFAH). is in the top ten largest art museums in the United States, housing an encyclopedic collection of nearly 80,000 works spanning 5,000 years of history from six continents. MFAH offers free admission to its permanent collection every Thursday 11 a.m. to 9 p.m. While entry to the permanent galleries is free for everyone, special exhibitions require a separate discounted All Access ticket.
Aside from Free Thursdays, you can also explore the following parts of the museum. The beautiful outdoor space of the Museum’s Susan and Fayez S. Sarofim Campus is free and open to the public.
Take in the Cullen Sculpture Garden created by sculptor Isamu Noguchi. As you round the corner, you’ll find a walkable, sloped path from the ground, to the roof of the Glassell School of Art., ending in the unique PNC roof garden with panoramic views of Houston’s skyline. The plaza includes sculptures, a fountain, and seating, open every day.
Check out Bayou Bend Collection and Gardens, the MFAH house museum for American decorative arts for more free family days, art activities, history programs for adults and kids.
Contact info: bayoubend@mfah.org or 713-639-7750
Rienzi, the MFAH house museum for European decorative arts, offers free family days and garden tours as well as regular programs for all ages.
Contact info: rienzi@mfah.org or 713-639-7800.
Menil Collection is not far from MFAH if you think you can fit it all into one day. Luckily entry is always free If you need more time to explore. Wednesday–Sunday 11 a.m.–7 p.m.Closed Mondays and Tuesdays.
Rothko Chapel Be sure to check out the Rothko events calendar as you plan your visit.
Regular hours: Tuesday through Sunday 10 a.m.- 6 p.m.
Okay, now the local flair.
Photo by Alisa Matthews
I will absolutely miss something by mistake or run out of room here. There is just too much to explore, but these are some of my favorites.
As I write this, I realize that it would take multiple write-ups to loosely summarize the Orange Show, and you still would be in the dark. I’ll do my best in this little section.
Over the course of 20 years, Jeff McKissack single-handedly brought his imagination into existence on an empty lot near his home. Jeff collected discarded items like fire escapes and tile from Houston construction sites in order to build his dream. Using welding skills learned during his time in the army, Jeff was able to piece the structures together bit-by-bit. A man who worked as a mail carrier and a truck driver delivering oranges became a creative legend when the doors opened to the Orange Show in May of 1979. Today, the Orange Center for Visionary Art is a staple of the art and culture of Houston.
Visit orangeshow.org for a long list of events, programs, and workshops available to the public.
You can not mention the Orange Show without The Houston Art Car Parade & Festival
The Art Car Parade was one of the first large scale local art events that I experienced as a kid. Seeing a giant skull on wheels driven by a character straight out of Mad Max followed by a fire breathing dragon was all it took to hook a fourteen year old me. There were cars painted and covered with miniature buildings and toy vehicles to make a (not quite) to scale replica of Houston, and others covered in baby doll heads. The experience is so ridiculous and whimsical, you can’t help but be drawn in by the magic.
Another local staple that sparked my young imagination is The Beer Can House.
Depending on your upbringing or if you partook in “greek life” or if you are cool enough to know what “The Houston Beer Olympics” is, a title like “the Beer Can House” probably conjures up a visual of kicking PBR and Lonestars out of a front lawn to make it to the front door. Not quite, rather than litter, imagine thousands of cans, reflective side out, as the entire facade of a home in the city. For 18 years, John Milkovisch meticulously covered his home in hand cut aluminium cans. The house was featured in Ripley’s Believe it or Not where it is estimated more than 50,000 cans were used to cover the structure.
Smither Park Artist and builder Dan Phillips and Stephanie Smither worked together to design Smither Park in the memory of Stephanie’s late husband, John H. Smither. The Smithers collected self-taught art and supported the local art community. They were also long standing board members of The Orange Show Center for Visionary Art. More than 300 artists have contributed permanent mosaic art to Smither Park. The local landmark is “a testimony to the vibrancy and creativity of the city of Houston.”
Sawyer Yards: Located near downtown, this massive creative hub houses over 300 artist studios across six converted warehouses. Time your trip for theSecond Saturday Open Studios to meet the artists directly and explore the property's Big Walls, Big Dreams murals
Buffalo Bayou Park Cistern: Grab tickets to view site-specific, immersive digital art installations inside a historic, echoing 1926 underground reservoir
Murals.
Photo by Ruben Mavarez
Again, listing everything would be near impossible. Lucky for us, other locals have started cataloging murals as a guide for viewers.
Search no further than the Houston Mural Map for a literal map of where to find beautiful works of art in the Greater Houston area.
About Houston Mural Map
“HoustonMuralMap.com is a crowd-sourced community resource, created by UP Art Studio, with website developer and photographer Alex Barber. The Houston Mural Map website launched July 15, 2020, with funding in part by the City of Houston through Houston Arts Alliance, with a Let Creativity Happen Digital Grant, 2020.”
Speaking of UP Art Studio. Through a passion for civic art, they have facilitated mural projects and launched a program to spread art all over the Houston area. Their signature Mini Murals - Houston Mini Murals program has helped promote art for nearly ten years.
Also, check out elmuralcho.com for another local mural guide.
Houston Street Art
Photo by Iain Cridland
Graffiti is difficult to catalog and document for obvious reasons, but for almost 25 years there was at least one local spot to see the mural craft in abundance.
The Houston Graffiti building located in Houston’s east end has transformed many times over the decades.A warehouse and legendary music venue turned open canvas for emerging and established artists alike. The ever changing facade has been featured in countless selfies, professional photo shoots, indie films, and music videos. The building became a cultural landmark beloved by locals and attracting talent from around the world. Unfortunately the building was demolished in June of 2025 to make way for the expansion of i45.
Now that the Graffiti building is gone, where can you see it? Good question. Though ill-advised, truly hidden masterpieces tucked away in the grime of the bayous can be found in abundance. Those of us resourceful and brave/stupid enough to venture into shadowy corners and rusted out rail yards have the privilege of viewing art at its most unadulterated.
So many things have not been mentioned. This is the first, but will definitely not be the last, post about the art in Houston. Again, I sincerely hope I have inspired you to go explore, and I wish you the best.
I’ll leave you with a thought I found scrawled on the bathroom wall of a music venue:
“ Sense writing on toilet walls is done neither for critical acclaim, nor financial rewards, it is the purest form of art.” -Unknown vandal.
Take care of one another.
-Lucas.
Photo and cheesy Insta collage by Lucas
